In our latest entry of our Rock Skills series, we are going to look at lead climbing outdoor routes.

**Novice lead climbers must understand the risks involved, how to place gear and how to build a good belay system.**

**These skills can be learnt with a Rock Climbing Development Instructor**

Article in progress*

Building a trad rack

When leading you must balance having enough gear to protect the route while also minimising excess weight. A lead rack can weigh in excess of 4kg, sometimes lighter if purchasing lightweight equipment, but you wouldn’t necessarily carry every bit of kit. An experienced climber will tailor their rack to suit the climb that they are planning to do. If there is only really wide cracks, you can save weight by leaving the small size nuts behind. The climbing rack below, although extensive will provide adequate equipment as they progress up the grades and onto multipitch. Although you wouldn’t carry this entire rack up a route, it has enough equipment to tailor towards most climbs. We have recommended brands/sizes for a lightweight rack, although items can be substituted for cheaper and heavier brands/models.

2 x dynamic 50m triple rated climbing ropes (each in a different colour, can be used as half/twin/single ropes - if starting out you can use one rope but wandering routes have less drag on half ropes and you can abseil further on multi-pitch route descents).

1 x 50m static rigging rope (can be used to rig fixed abseils into climbing venues such as sea cliffs or for rigging top/bottom ropes alongside use of a dynamic rope to practice a route before leading it)

1 x set of DMM Walnuts sizes 1-11 split over two DMM Phantom snap gates

1 x set of DMM Offsets sizes 3-7 on a DMM Phantom snap gate

1 x set of DMM Half Nuts sizes 1-7 on a DMM Phantom snap fate

1 x set of DMM Torque Nuts sizes 1-4 split over two DMM Phantom snap gates

1 x Nut Key (either on a leash, or attached to a prusik and krab, the second should also carry a nut key)

DMM Dragon cams sizes 0-5, each on their own DMM Phantom snap gates

6 x DMM Phantom Quickdraws 25cm

8 x DMM Phantom Quickdraws 60cm

1 x DMM Pivot on a DMM Phantom HMS screwgate karabiner

4 x spare DMM Phantom HMS screwgate karabiners (for building belays)

3 x DMM 8mm 120cm Dynatec Slings on DMM Phantom HMS screwgate karabiners

1 x DMM 8mm 240cm Dynatec Sling on a DMM Phantom HMS Screwgate karabiner (for multi pitch it may be beneficial for the second to also carry one)

2 x Beal Jammy Prusiks 60cm on a DMM Phantom HMS Screwgate (beneficial for the second to also carry prusiks)

The rack listed above is very versatile, for higher grades you may consider adding micro-wires/micro-cams, swapping screw gates for lightweight snap gates if appropriate. A rack this size is a large expense, but you can start out with a stripped down version by ditching a dynamic rope, the static rope, cams, offsets, half nuts, and the 25cm quickdraws. This would still leave you with enough kit to climb easy single pitch routes.

Racking up before a climb

There’s nothing worse than trying to find the right gear on your harness while holding a strenuous position to place gear. It is worth organising your gear on your harness in an ordered fashion before you climb so you know where everything is. Racking up for a climb can be personal and every climber has their own method. Our favourite method is to have protection in size order split across the two front gear loops, quickdraws on the second gear loops, spare krabs, belay plate, 240cm sling and prusiks towards the back of the harness and 120cm slings clipped across the chest. We prefer gates facing out to minimise dropping nuts but you can have gates facing in if you prefer. You can also carry equipment on a bandolier to free up space on your harness or to make swapping gear on belays easier.

Belaying and catching a lead climber

The belayer should position themselves close to the base of the climb in a stable position with the dead hand being the hand furthest away from the climb, this will put you in a secure position to protect a fall or to spot the climber on the first few moves.. Standing close to the climb also prevents unzipping the gear with an outwards pull.

**It is best to belay close to the base of the climb**

**This prevents being pulled over or unzipping the gear from the bottom up. You can also spot the climber on the first few moves until they place the first bit of gear**

If you are un awkward ground it might be best to sit down on a boulder as long as you can still effectively lock off and protect the dead rope. If the ground is exposed or near an edge it might be preferable for the second to build a stance or anchor themselves in somewhere, alternatively if the route has fragile rock it might be best to stand off to the side to prevent being hit by anything that might fall down.

Placing gear

Protecting a traversing route

Falling and retreating from a route

Building a belay system

Communicating with your climbing partner