Top 4 Beginner Climbing Spots on Dartmoor and South Devon
So, you've caught the climbing bug? Welcome! 🎉 Devon is a climber's paradise, blessed with everything from the wild granite tors of Dartmoor to the dramatic sea cliffs of the coast. It can be daunting to know where to start, but don't worry—some of the UK's best rock for learning is right here on your doorstep.
Here are our top 5 spots in Devon that are perfect for beginners looking to take their first steps onto real rock.
1. Haytor, Dartmoor
If you were to picture Dartmoor climbing, you'd probably picture Haytor.
Why it's great for beginners: It's iconic, incredibly accessible (you can park almost next to it), and offers a fantastic selection of low-grade, well-protected climbs. The granite is famously grippy, giving you confidence in your feet, and the views from the top are a brilliant reward.
Type of Climbing: Primarily traditional (trad) climbing.
Classic Beginner Route: Zig Zag (Diff) - A true Dartmoor classic that feels like a mini-mountain adventure.
Pro Tip: Haytor is very popular and exposed. Try a weekday evening in summer to avoid the crowds and enjoy the sunset from the top.
2. Leigh Tor, Dartmoor
Tucked away on the edge of the of the moor, Leigh Tor has a wonderfully friendly and sheltered atmosphere.
Why it's great for beginners: It's a beginner slab climber's dream, with lots of low-angled routes that are perfect for practicing footwork and building confidence. The gear placements are often obvious and solid, making it an ideal location for learning to place your first pieces of trad gear.
Type of Climbing: Traditional (trad) climbing and some bouldering.
Classic Beginner Route: Pumpin' Sumfin' (M) - A collection of brilliant, easy slab climbs on superb rock.
Pro Tip: The walk-in is very quick here, and above the crag makes a perfect spot for a picnic! So pack a flask and some snacks to make a day of it. The area is also popular for groups, so be prepared to share the crag.
3. Hound Tor, Dartmoor
Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.
Why it's great for beginners: Want to try some varied trad climbing or top rope some easier climbs? Hound Tor is one of the best spots on Dartmoor. While it's famous for its amazing and photogenic route, ‘Suspension Flake’ (VS), the 'Pulpit Block' area on the tor has a number of well-protected, lower-grade trad climbs. It's a great place to transition from an indoor wall to outdoor rock, allowing you to focus purely on your movement with plenty of opportunities to place gear.
Type of Climbing: Traditional (trad) climbing and some bouldering.
Classic Beginner Route: Look for the routes graded M-Diff in the 'Pulpit Block' area.
Pro Tip: The descent down ‘Pulpit Block’ is steep, and can be particularly hairy when damp! Take your time and be prepared for knowing the way down. Check the guidebook!
5. Chudleigh Rocks
For a change from granite and sea cliffs, head to the limestone crags at Chudleigh.
Why it's great for beginners: Just a stone's throw from Exeter, this spot offers a variety of well-bolted sport routes on its less intimidating walls. The climbing style is different—more reliant on finding positive holds than on friction—which is great for developing your technique.
Type of Climbing: Sport and traditional (trad) climbing.
Classic Beginner Route: Check the 'Far Eastern Buttress' area on the North Face for a good selection of friendly sport routes. You’ll need to check access with the landowner first before climbing on the North Face.
Pro Tip: Some of the rock can be polished, so trust your feet! This is a popular spot for outdoor groups, so an early start is recommended.
Ready to Climb? A Word on Safety
Ready to Climb? A Word on Safety
Venturing outdoors for the first time is a huge step. The freedom is amazing, but it comes with new risks.
Understanding ropework, building solid anchors, and learning to read the rock are essential skills that are best learned from a qualified professional.
If you’re excited to explore these fantastic locations but want to do it safely and confidently, why not join one of our Beginner Rock Climbing Courses? At Climb Devon, we can provide all the gear and expert instruction you need to have a safe, fun, and memorable day out on the crags.
